Fighting with computers

Computers are not always friendly.

Saturday, April 30, 2016

Hephestos 2 heated bed

Since I got a beta version of Hephestos 2 from BQ before its launch, I have been using that printer more and more. After the initial annoyance about doing things on a certain way (like heating the extruder before performing a home move on an axis) I have got used to these details and I do not care anymore.

And with a few exceptions were a part bottom failed to stick to the bed (nothing that a bit of hairspray could not fix) the printer has been delivering consistently quality prints. Z-axis became a bit noisy on long moves but I have no other complaints.

However,  all the time I have been using PLA or Filaflex on a cold bed. There is no provision for a heated bed add-on so I had a look around for a stand-alone temperature controller.  I have found a simple pcb unit with display that controls a relay for a heating load up to 20A. Not sure how long that relay could last but for less than $5 I am going to give it a try.


Next the bed, I do like aluminium beds with power resistors epoxied to the bottom. In this case care is needed to take advantage of the holes in the bed holder parts so that space could be used by the resistors without losing more than a few millimetres of print height. 


Just for testing I fixed the bed using kapton tape. I was not sure on whether to use the same clamp mechanism used for the standard bed, so I reckon I will use metal bulldog clips on the sides. This new bed being metallic too works ok with the inductive probe used for automatic bed tramming. 


The only other change needed was to adjust the bed offset for the new bed before starting to print. Next PLA printing at 50C worked without any trouble. 


And so did the first sample print I did on ABS. But I have to kill that after a few layers because the bed was wobbling back and forth as only a bit of kapton tape was fixing it to the bed holder.  Next day I will fix the bed properly to the carriage.  

Of course for this bed, equipped with 4 25W power resistors, and disipating around 120W an additional power supply is needed.  I used a 12V 300W power supply I had around. 12V are needed to power the temperature controller and I am using 12V for the heating element too. 

No electrical or logical connection with the Hephestos 2 electronics is needed. Of course that also means that nor the printer nor the host software has a way to switch on or off the bed or of adjusting the temperature. All of this has to be done manually by the user. 


Tuesday, April 26, 2016

SDR-Art

I am working on an Art project that requires some radio-reception capability on a Raspberry Pi. I available online. But given the local nature of the data I need to treat this time I have to use a local receiver.
have used in the past some interesting website that feature an SDR device whose reception is

One suitable device I found very inexpensive are DVB-T USB dongles originally intended for watching Digital TV on a computer. These dongles can be had for less than $10 on eBay. The good thing is that the chipsets employed are Linux supported and there is a bunch of useful software that can use them as a Software Defined Radio (SDR).

What is SDR? Well, basically it can act as a multipurpose radio scanner for many different purposes as spectrum usage recorder, amateur radio receiver or just listening to FM radio or airplane ADS-B transponders. For that latter purpose there is a cool program called dump1090 that will receive and decode the messages of the airplanes' transponders reaching your receiver.

Tuesday, April 05, 2016

4xiDraw: Another pen plotter

After watching a video of a new pen plotter made by Evil Mad Scientist we wanted to have a similar device.



And having a 3D printer at hand plus some CAD software like Onshape or Fusion 360 it was a good exercise to design the whole thing.



As usual the process was not completely straightforward, as initially it was more about copying the model we saw but as things were coming together some new ideas were explored. So while the first mock-up was based entirely on laser-cut parts (some of them glued together to make them thicker as the crappy laser I have access to is really depth limited as it is low-power).  Why laser-cut? Well because it was faster (or so it was supposed, but don't get me started on that).


Once the first model was put together several ideas pop up: First, motors are in the way of carriage motion and reduce a bit carriage travel along smooth rods. Second, motors require another part that could be fused with the machine feet and rods support. Third, the initial belt path created non-parallel belt runs that will cause poor accuracy and variable belt tension, so central carriage needs to be revised.

Eventually, the model became more and more made of printed parts and once published there have been more ideas pouring in from some of the readers, like an easier to orient pen holder that already replaced the original one.

Controller firmware

My initial approach was to try to imitate the design and tools of AxiDraw but then I learned they use a PIC-based board that I do not have around and that it will take a while till I get one, but I had Arduinos laying around instead, so it was settled my plotter would be operated by Arduino. A CNCshield a friend gave me away (thanks Ernes) could hold a couple of stepper drivers to control the machine. 

A logical choice was to use GRBL firmware but a few details needed to be solved: this contraption is not a regular cartesian design but it uses a single belt configuration called H-bot. From the math point of view h-bot and corexy work the same so I was happy to learn the latest versions of GRBL do in fact support corexy. That was one thing solved. The next one was that I needed to control a servo por pen-up and pen-down movements. For doing that I learned that robottini's version of GRBL could do that too. So another need was solved too and firmware was settled. You can use mine. Servo is controlled by M3 and M5 commands.

Software workflow

So my drawing machine will receive drawing commands as g-code but, how is that drawing code being created. I looked around and what was designed for AxiDraw was an Inkscape plugin  that would create code suitable for the board they sell which is nothing similar to the g-code mine uses, so I had to use something else. 

I learned about several projects for outputting g-code for laser cutters from Inkscape. I settled with one plugin that seemed very powerful not only cutting but doing raster images too, but intended for a laser cutter. The good thing was that output was g-code, so I had to hack my way to adapt it to draw with a pen. After some struggle I manage to get a stable response. 

The problems I faced were that pen up and pen down commands took time and I needed to add an extra delay so drawing would be ok. Where original plugin controlled the laser output power I just needed to set the pen down so lines would be printed. It took a while but now it is working nicely.


If you wonder why there is a 608 bearing on the pen carriage which is not present in the CAD files it is because it adds a bit more weight so the ball-pen will draw a more consistent line.

Another project  I tested was LaserWeb, which uses your browser to convert SVG or DXF files into GCODE and can stream the file directly to you machine's serial port. It is based on javascript and I installed the server side on Cloud9, but I had to replace the 8000 port to 8080 to get it working on that platform. 

Once the g-code files are obtained, in my case using the Inkscape plugin, another tool is needed to send the file to the drawing machine. I am using a Java-based program called Universal Serial Sender that does the job brilliantly and it includes a preview and a live view of the print too. 

That makes the whole workflow based on open source software that can run on any operating system you are using.

Some of you asked me why the 4xiDraw name: well, AxiDraw is a registered trademark and FreeDraw was already taken too.